Pretty Pretty Vintage Lingerie...

So when I'm not sewing, designing a pattern, or obsessively looking for the next vintage pattern I must have, I swoon over lingerie on Etsy and Ebay. I looked over my favorites the other day and realized I had a pretty gorgeous mood board going on, so I thought I would share a few of my favorite pieces from my favorite sellers with you.

I have to start with two lovely French new old stock corsets from Auvergne Memories.
First a lovely peach satin with stretch panels (Alas! Still one size too small!)

The beautiful top stitch detail gives me lots to think about for my next corset.

And then a gorgeous midnight blue one... swoon.

These genuine vintage corsets look a great deal like the corset from our sew-along. Why, of course, they're both French!

 I have bought from this shop before and had a lovely experience; I can't recommend her enough! She also has lovely vintage garter straps and bra closures in her shop.

I bought one of these vintage bra backs in pink and will be using it as my closure for my sew-along bra. (coming soon!)

Then there's this adorable 1920's lace bra with delicate rosettes. It's pieces like these that I like to study every detail of for inspiration in my own hand-sewn lingerie.

And I would have bought this gorgeous slip from Vintage Costumes in a heartbeat if it had been just one size bigger. Check out that beautiful embroidered front!

And of course, the lace and ribbon detail is exquisite on this beautiful pink rayon nightgown from Urbaneccentric.

I recently bought a pair quite similar to these adorable new old stock vintage rayon tap panties from Vintage Clothiers and LOVED them! Just one more shop I can't recommend enough.

How about you? Do you buy vintage lingerie? If so, what do you look for? I try to strike a fine balance between wearable and too beautiful to pass up!

Also, are you about ready to start on your bras for the Ooh La La Pin-Up Sew-Along?

Anna Interviews a Corset Maker

Many of us in the bloggosphere have had corsets on the mind lately. Between the Ooh la la  Pin-Up Sew-Along, the 100 year commemoration of the Titanic sinking related sewing, and Downtown Abbey related sewing, we've seen a lot of beautiful corset posts lately!


Here's one more... For today's post I have interviewed my mother (the biggest expert on corsets you'll ever find) movie costumier, vintage corset collector, seamstress and restorer extraordinaire.


Mom, I know this story by heart, but for my readers, when did your love affair with with vintage begin?

Many years ago I got into the vintage clothing business.   I was actually 12 when I fell in love with vintage after winning a contest for best period costume.  By the time I got into college I was often found closing down the library at K-State buried in the archives of the Delineator books that you couldn't check out but could copy.

I would swoon at the lingerie of the day, my favorite era being 1890's through the early Deco era.  The corsets, camisoles and pantaloons made me want to go back in time just to be able to wear them.

Delieator page, Image courtesy of Magazineart.org

Delieator page, Image courtesy of Magazineart.org

Delieator page, Image courtesy of Magazineart.org

 When it occurred to me that I had enough vintage stashed away to open a shop, I had a four year old daughter and a newborn Anna that spent their days at the shop with me. My mother instilled in all of her daughters an arsenal of sewing skills which allowed me to begin taking custom orders for custom Victorian lingerie for collectors as well as reenactors about the time I opened my shop, Madame Silks.

I would reproduce these items to historical accuracy all the way down to using original boning and claspings that I would salvage from corsets that were too far gone to restore. 

What was the most interesting custom corset you ever made?

One day I was contacted by a fellow antique dealer to make a corset for a customer. I didn't have that many details so imagine my surprise when I arrived and the customer was not what I expected.  We will call him "Brucie".  Keep in mind that I was raised to be rather sheltered up to this point. I was at the tender age of 28 and was mortified at the thought of sewing such an intimate item for a man. A very large tree trunk of a man.  I told my friend that I just couldn't do it.  She said "he'll pay what ever price you ask".  I threw out a price that I was certain he would turn down and I would be safe from the impropriety of fittings which would be an important part of making such an intimate piece.  He accepted my price of $500.00 which in the 1980's was very high. 

I began the project with the understanding that I would not be in the fitting room while he was trying it on.  I remember sitting there waiting for a friend to fit the corset on him when there seemed to be a problem.  It wouldn't cinch up tight enough.  Ooh dear.  I grew a proverbial pair, took a deep breath and went in to see what the problem was.  Here was a 5'6"  56" barrel chested man with the corset on along with his pink and blue panties and I just about passed out.  It was a perfect fit except for the fact that it wouldn't cinch up tight enough.  Should have used leather.  Brucie was a detective by day and and something entirely more interesting on his own time.  I was able to fix the problem and all were happy.

Tell us a little about the corsets you've gotten your hands on?

I have had a number of authentic corsets over the years that were just too lovely for words.  My favorite was a bridal corset from the 1860's that was an ivory silk satin that had tiny hand embroidered forget-me-nots on the entire piece.  I wish I still had pictures of it.  I can only dream of what this mystery girl's entire trousseau might have looked like. 

What's your biggest sewing inspiration?

Books.....magazines...from yesterday still grace my book case.  The Deliniator, Harper's Bazaar, etc. that I often pull down off the book case and just dream of gentler times when women draped themselves in layer upon layer of silks and soft cotton. Fabrics that are of no comparison to the fabrics of today.  Yes there are wonderful fabrics out there to be had but oh, for the old silks that just stir the senses.

Also, my collection of corset boxes always inspire me. They decorate the walls of my boudoir and are as lovely as the gorgeous corsets that they once came with.

What should we keep in mind when fitting a corset?

When fitting a corset you are fortunate if you have a dress form that fits your measurements. Keep in mind that a pattern can only do so much to cater to the fact that every figure is as varied and unique as can be.  Fabric choice is essential and you should use a fabric with strength.  Corsets are not shifts.  They are designed to conform and be snug.  If you choose a lighter fabric make sure that you have a lining that will ad strength to the corset.

What are some sewing tips you might pass on to us who are new to making corsets?

The best tip that I can share with you readers is to make a rough draft of muslin to allow you the ability to adjust the pattern before wasting your fabric. It's essential.

What extra little details make the perfect corset? (i.e. finishing touches, embellishments)

My favorite thing in sewing intimate apparel is to add detail to make the garment my own such as hand embroidery, little touches of bead work and of course....lace...lace...lace...and how can you not add some ribbon work?  Embellish to your heart's content.

Have you found any good corsets hiding out in rural Nebraska lately?


Actually, yes, I just acquired a dusty box with about two dozen corsets hiding inside, some in pieces, some perfect and ready to wear. I took some pictures for you all.

Oooh, dibs on the polka-dot one!

There was even a huge handful of every type of boning you can imagine and there are a few that I've already started restoring.

 She'll be breaking into her Victorian lace collection (yes, she has one) to get this little beauty back up to snuff.

Swoon.

 ~A Special thanks to my lovely and talented mother for taking the time to help me with this post!

Some of these lovely corsets will be showing up in her shop Phoebe Delia's Mercantile soon (if she can tear herself away from the lace!) ~

Lovely German Patterns...

I have been watching German pattern magazines go like crazy on Ebay lately. I even ponied up the money to buy a few of them. This got me looking on a few other web sites to find more and pretty soon I did. I recently bought one sight unseen from a German book dealer. I knew it was from the 1930's, and I confirmed that it had the pattern sheet included, but didn't ask any more questions. The price was reasonable so I figured it would be a fun surprise to find out what was inside.

My Illustrierte Wache- und Handarbeits-Zeitung arrived in the mail today and I was really eager to find out what I had bought.

It turns out that this particular issue was ENTIRELY dedicated to Lingerie. Perfect, isn't it, how some things just work out?

If you're not too familiar with German pattern magazines, all you need to know is that the lingerie issue is the hardest to find, and really pricey when you do.

I love how I've had nothing but corsets, bras and garter belts on the brain for the last 2 months, and here's a wealth of them!

Just look at those garter belts!

The simple sets of teddies/ Cami-knickers are really lovely on their own. Check out that delicate scalloped hemline!

 Above are some serious support garments, wouldn't you say?

Yes, there are even knitting patterns for underthings, how great is that?! They thought of everything for this issue. I only wish that the most recent Burda Style issue with lingerie had been half as creative or comprehensive.

The best part is that the pattern sheet is crisp and strong. I don't even think it was ever even unfolded.
I recently had a horrible experience with my local copy shop's scanner eating one of my poor pattern sheets and spitting it out in pieces so there will be no paper copies in the meantime, but PDFs are sure to follow soon!

Next up for me after the sew-along is the much asked for French bathing suit pattern that will be loosely based off of the below, and then... more lingerie, of course!

Which of the above lovely patterns would you like to see multi-sized and available for download?

A Free Knitting Pattern and some sewing updates...

Today for those of you who knit, I have something special for you!

I found this beautiful sweater knitting pattern in an old Workbasket booklet from 1947 and just had to share it with you all.

I really wish I could knit. I wish it on a daily basis, actually, especially when I have patterns like this  one at my fingertips.

But where would I add yarn and knitting needles to the mountain of fabric and patterns that occupy my creative space? I just have to keep telling myself, "One hobby at a time, Anna, just one."

In other sewing news, Sarah posted a recap of the corset project over on Ohhh Lulu with some more pictures of her gorgeous finished corset.

And last, but not least, are you thinking about sewing your bra for the Ooh La La pin-Up Sew-Along? Which version will you sew, the corselet or bra? I think I'll do one of each just for kicks.

Did you know you can buy patterns on craftsy?

Recently I was very excited to learn that Craftsy had added a new feature to their website. Craftsy was originally a great place to take online sewing and crafting courses and post your projects for others to see. Now they've added a new feature that allows designers to offer their patterns for sale. The best part? Instant download!

No more waiting for an email in your inbox. Just simple checkout, download and sew!

I got on board right away and now I'm excited to announce that I have a Craftsy Pattern Shop!

My very favorite part of this new feature is that anyone can post pictures of their projects and it links up with the pattern in the shop. If you're looking to buy a pattern you can see if anyone else has sewn it first, posted pictures, left reviews or suggestions, everything!

This is very similar to the Burda Style projects section only with a broader scope. All you do is click on the "+ Add a Finished Project" button, upload your pictures, chat a bit about your pattern, and post!

I thought that this would be a great place for everyone to post their finished corset photos if they would like to share. If you want to post your finished project, you can do so here.

I'm kind of an affirmation junkie (I'm a blogger, comes with the territory, I suppose.) so I love posting my projects to sites like these where people always leave encouraging comments and feedback.

As a little added incentive, (I really want to see your photos!) if you post a finished project of ANY Mrs. Depew Vintage pattern on Craftsy, I'll give you a free PDF Pattern!

Just email me (afewthreadsloose@gmail.com) with a link to your finished Craftsy post along with the pattern you'd like me to send you! This offer is good until March 25. Creating a Craftsy account is really fast, and of course, free.

In other sewing news, Sarah and I are taking a week long break from the Ooh la la pin-up Sew-along to give many of you a chance to catch up before we dive into the bra posts.

Also, A Few Threads Loose now has a How-To and Techniques Page. You can find it at the top of this page, just under the main banner image. It contains links to sewing how-to posts and tutorials from both my blog, and several other sites. There's a particular emphasis on lingerie sewing techniques so if you get stuck on a project and you want to see how to sew a placket closure, for example, just click on the placket closure link in the page and it takes you straight to a how-to post. I'm adding new terms and how-to links often so check back.

And, as always, if there's something you want to learn how to do, leave me a comment and I'll do everything in my power to find or create a tutorial for you.

Have a lovely rest of the weekend!

Ooh La La Pin-Up Sew-Along... Rosettes, and we're done!

The pattern we're using...

Yesterday we talked about attaching our garter straps and Sarah posted a great tutorial on making lovely bows to embellish our corsets with.

Photo courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.

Today I'm taking the frou frou up a notch and adding a couple of contrasting rosettes to sit over my two front garter straps.

Here's a very simple way to make a delicate vintage style rosette.
I started with some lovely 1/2" wide vintage rayon binding ribbon. My piece is about 6" long and made a rosette about 3/4" in diameter. For a fuller rosette, just use a longer length or ribbon.

Ohh La La Pin Up Sew Along... Attaching your garter clips.

The pattern we're using...

Yesterday Sarah taught us how to make lovely covered garter straps and now that my clips have arrived and I've gotten 3 hours of sleep, here's another way to attach them.
(3 hours of sleep is a small victory, by the way, I'm not complaining :)

My lovely pink vintage garter clips.

I have in my sewing stash some really soft, plush lingerie elastic in a metallic sort of cream color that coordinates nicely with my bias binding. This will be perfect for making my straps into stretchy loops.

The first thing you want to do is try your corset on with your favorite pair of stockings to see how long your clips should be.