Ohh La La Pin Up Sew Along... Attaching your garter clips.

The pattern we're using...

Yesterday Sarah taught us how to make lovely covered garter straps and now that my clips have arrived and I've gotten 3 hours of sleep, here's another way to attach them.
(3 hours of sleep is a small victory, by the way, I'm not complaining :)

My lovely pink vintage garter clips.

I have in my sewing stash some really soft, plush lingerie elastic in a metallic sort of cream color that coordinates nicely with my bias binding. This will be perfect for making my straps into stretchy loops.

The first thing you want to do is try your corset on with your favorite pair of stockings to see how long your clips should be.

Ooh la la Pin Up Sew-Along... Optional Detail - Satin Covered Garter Straps

It's garter clip time! Sarah just posted the greatest tutorial at Ohh Lulu in sewing a satin covered garter strap.

Hers came out beautifully, don't you think? Even if you don't plan on using this technique, the post is great reading with lots of pretty pictures featuring Sarah's gorgeous corset.

My husband brought the mail home with him this evening (our mail comes to the base) and there were boxes and envelopes overflowing with the many lingerie sewing accoutrements I've been snapping up lately, my much awaited garter clips included!

I haven't had a chance to sew on these lovely little pink bits but I'll get a post up tomorrow with the finished product. I'll be using cream plush lingerie elastic to attach my garters. Has anyone had any trouble finding garter clips or any of your other notions?

Bias tape: binding an inverted corner.

 For the Ooh La La Pin-Up Sew-Along we just finished binding our top and bottom corset edges. If you want to know how to get a sharp point (as opposed to a softer, rounded look) on the inverted corner in the center panel, here's a good technique to try.

My practice corner, an exact copy of the inverted corner in the corset center panel.

This will involve sewing a pre-made corner into your binding so measure out the binding you need for the bottom first (then add two 'in case of error inches" to that.)
I suggest making a practice piece first like I have here to test out and get comfortable with the idea. 

Ooh la la Pin Up Sew-Along... Binding your edges.

The pattern we're using...

Today for binding your edges, Sarah put together an excellent post for us. Her explanations are so nicely put together that there's not much for me to add! Her method is a really great way to control the quality of the binding that goes on. There are so many ways to bias bind an edge that we really don't want to overwhelm you with too much info here. I prefer to sew mine on completely by hand because crazy, unnecessary hand work soothes the neurotic person in me. You really don't have to do it that way.

~Sarah~

Before you get started, make sure you have inserted all of the bones you plan on using, and have tested the fit.

For your binding, you can use purchased bias trim or bias trim made of self or contrasting fabric.  I'm using the same pink satin as I used to cover my bone casings.  I am cutting bias strips 1 1/8" wide, and pressing my folds prior to stitching.

Baste your bias tape in place, leaving a little overhang on each end as pictured above.

Ooh la la Pin Up Sew-Along... Embelishments: Hooks and eyes can be pretty too.

When I last posted about the corset we had just finished sewing our hook and eye tape to the corset back. Now, here's how to make it pretty.

I chose to bind the outside edges of my closure with cream satin bias tape. This was too small a place to get a sewing machine needle into, especially with the hooks and eyes in the way, but that's ok. I really prefer to sew bias binding on by hand. I feel like I have better control over where my stitches go and how they look on both sides.

When we first moved to Norway, I made a newbie mistake and plugged my sewing machine into the wrong end of my electric transformer, blowing the electric part out. Gertie of Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing and her great readers helped me out in this post by suggesting all sorts of hand sewing projects I could do to stay busy until my machine was fixed.
I ended up sewing several projects completely by hand including an amazing silk blouse and now I consider hand stitching to be an incredibly soothing and rewarding pastime.

If you choose to bind our edge as I have done, make sure that you keep your stitches under the eyes, and that the stitches directly under the eye are split in two, just in case the hook catches, it will be anchored well there.

I bound both edges like this and then it was time to add boning again. I agree with Sarah completely when she said that if you add boning anywhere to the corset, you really need to add it to the back.

It depends on what type of hook and eye tape you have but sometimes there's a channel already hidden behind the hooks and eyes that's perfect for boning to slip into. If there isn't such a spot in your case, then don't worry! There should still be a gap between the back of the hook and eye tape against the corset fabric.

Here's my bound and boned hook edge from the outside.

For a little added embellishment I added a length of purchased ruffle trim to the back of my hook side. I just carefully slip-stitched it in place. The top and bottom ends will be nicely bound when we finish the rest of the corset binding.

Next up comes binding the top and bottom. If you've done any quilting, I'm sure your bias binding techniques will come in handy in this part!
With any luck, my garter clips will get here soon and I can finish this little beauty.

How is everyone doing so far? Are you behind or ahead of Sarah and I?
Keep in mind that there's no deadline, no homework due, and you don't have to keep the same pace as anyone else. This is to make sewing lingerie easy and fun for you, on YOUR terms!

Ohh La La Pin Up Sew Along... Your Hook and Eye Closure

The pattern we're using...

All right Ladies, it's that time. Hook and eye time. First, allow me to disclaim a bit. This is not my very best work. I did this on day 4 of NO sleep (hurray for medicine side effects) so my pictures and sewing both are a wee bit blurry, I apologize.

This is a bit of a long post so feel free to stop half way though and have a glass of wine. I did.

The right hand side of the tape will be our 'raw' edge.

 Start by cutting the length of hook and eye tape you need for your back closure. I recommend doing this with the hooks and eyes locked together to avoid any mismatched edges.
Decide which side you want the hooks and eyes on. I went with the standard bra formula of Hooks on the Right, Eyes on the Left.

Let's start with they eyes, shall we?

Ohh La La Pin Up Sew Along... Everything in One Place.

If you're participating in the Ooh La La Pin-Up Sew-Along then it might be a good idea to bookmark this page. Below are links to each how-to post so far and I'll keep updating to this page as well after each new post.

1950s French Corset/ Garter Belt #2002 vintage sewing pattern available for download here.

Part 1, Corset:
1. Introduction.
2. What you'll need.
3. Printing the pattern.
4. Corset boning and why you need it.
5. Grading your pattern up or down.
6. Sewing your muslin.
7. Lace overlay is pretty... and optional.
8. Sewing your French seams.
Ohhh Lulu: Contrasting bone casings.
Ohhh Lulu: Preparing your center back pieces- Eyelet version.
9. Adding your boning.
10. Back hook and Eye Closure.
Ohhh Lulu: Applying your eyelets.
11. Binding your edges.
12. Bias binding: sewing an inverted corner.
Ohhh Lulu: Satin-covered garter straps.
13. Attaching garter straps.
Ohhh Lulu: Adding Bows 
14: Adding rosettes, and the finished corset!

1950s French Bra pattern available for download here.

Part 2, Bra:
1. What you need to start your bra ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
2. Making a muslin of Version 1 and how to adjust for a smaller cup size.
3. Making a muslin of Version 2 ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
Long-line Version: Important adjustments if you're a larger cup size ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
4. Cutting your Fabric ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
5. Darts and lining.
6. Sewing your bra seams.
Long-line Version: Cups and corselet assembly ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
Long-line Version: Adding a little extra support ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
7. Attaching your lining. 
8. Cheating nature a bit... or padding your bra.
9. Bra Back Closure.
10. Binding the raw edges.
11.Sewing on your bra straps and the finished product.
12: Sewing adjustable bra straps ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu. 

Part 3, Super Fancy Extended Edition; Betty High Waist Panties:
Where you can find the panties pattern. 

1. What you will need to sew the panties. ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
2. Sarah: Sewing your muslin. ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
3. Anna's Muslin.
4. Cutting your fabric and sewing your vertical seams. ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
5. Sewing in the crotch lining.  ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
6. Finishing the leg and waist openings with elastic.  ~ Courtesy of Ohhh Lulu.
7. Anna's Finished High Waist Panties.