1940's Bra Sew-Along - Sewing Your Muslin

A few of you have already commented on our last post to say that you've gotten your pattern and materials so now is a good time to get started in time for some weekend sewing. Shall we discuss sewing our muslin? This is probably the most important part of bra sewing. Making sure that you have the best fit possible will make all of the work you'll put in worth your while. Every body is different, and breasts themselves have wonderful variations that can make bra sewing a bit of a challenge.
This is why we need a  couple of good test versions to perfect any issues before you cut into your good fabric.

To get started, print your pattern out to 100% scale on your home printer. Tape the pieces together and then choose your desired size.
The pattern comes with several sizes included from a 34"- 44" Bust. For this measurement, we're talking about the circumference of the chest, level with the tip of your bust.

1940's Bra Sew-Along, and a Sewing Pattern Giveaway!

Update: This giveaway is now closed.

Well, my dear readers, it's that time again. I have the lingerie sewing bug. It's been ages since our last sew-along and I'm happy to say that my schedule has cleared just enough to allow me to host another one!
And the pattern I would love to make with you is my absolute favorite bra pattern, Depew #2013.

1940's style bra pattern Depew #2013 32"- 44" Bust.

I just most recently made this bra up in white satin and it turned out so beautifully, I thought, "Every girl should have one of these!" I wore this bra ll day yesterday under a semi-sheer top and it was so comfortable! I even had a lady approach me at a shop and say, "This is going to sound weird, but where can I buy a bra like the one you're wearing?" It seriously made my day.

Sadly you can't get a bra like this in stores anymore but I've had something in the works for a while now to make sewing your own easier and a bit more fun.
I've been working for months now to grade this pattern into many more sizes and have also partnered with Take & Make to offer a complete bra sewing kit with everything you need (including the pattern download) to sew the bra pictured below.

The bra sewing kit for pattern #2013.

The kit includes ready made straps and plush hook and eye closures that have been carefully matched with soft white satin, thread, and enough fine, soft muslin to sew a test version, with enough left over to line the bra if you should so choose. You can find the complete kit here.

We decided to go with white satin for the kits so that finding matching underwear wouldn't be a chore.

In one of my most recent posts we looked at an original 1940's bra to study the sewing details used. I'll be including these kinds of details in our sew-along posts and hopefully we'll all get to learn something new.

Top-stitch details are almost a must for any vintage bra!

And of course, this would be no sew-along launch without a giveaway! Next week I'll choose three winners from the comments on this post who will each get a digital copy of the bra pattern we'll be using.
To enter the giveaway here on A Few Threads Loose, simply leave a comment on this post letting me know you're in!

For an extra entry, you can do any or all of the following, just leave a comment letting me know about it!

• Like Mrs. Depew Vintage on Facebook.
• Follow A Few threads Loose on Bloglovin' or other blog reader sites.
• Pin any item on MrsDepew.com to Pinterest.
• Share this post on Facebook. 
• Share this post on your blog, if you have one.

I'll announce the winner of the giveaway on October 23rd and then we can start gathering our materials for the sew-along.


Happy sewing, and best of luck to the entrants!

Get the look: Claire Randall's 1940's Blue Coat.

I don't know about you, my dear readers, but one of my favorite books is Outlander by Diana Gabaldon. If you haven't read it yet, it's a wonderful historical tale with a heroine you can't help but love, and a plot you can't help but get hooked on. Showtime has been slowly and quite carefully recreating this amazing series (oh yes, did I fail to mention there are several books to this tale you'll love?) into a TV show with beautiful cinematography, excellent casting, and HEAVENLY clothing.

One of the most popular looks on the show so far has been Claire Randall's beautiful 1940's coat and hat from Season 1. Recently, I saw a Facebook post asking for patterns to get the look and it got me to thinking... I have those patterns! So, without further ado, here is how to get the look!

The perfect pattern for this is Depew #4185 which can be easily adapted to look like the coat above.
Instead of three buttons as pictured below, just sew a tab and use one button. The sleeves and pockets are nearly identical but the difference is the fullness at the back.

To add that fullness, you can use the simple slash and spread method with the back of your pattern for added pleats:

And on to the hat, I have that one too! This is a great translated vintage French hat pattern from the late 1940's that has four hats included. The version to copy Claire's (somewhat hard to see) hat would be model B From Depew #1022.

How about you? Is there a TV show out there with clothing you just can't get enough of? I know some of us might consider ourselves a bit too grown up for teen dramas, but I'm going to admit, I also love to watch Reign from the CW. It's a probably definitely not-very-historically-accurate dramatization of Mary Queen of Scotts, and I could say that I just watch it primarily for the clothes, but that we be a lie... I watch it for the crazy guilty pleasure of will-they-or-won't-they soap opera drama!

But seriously though, the clothes!

Of course they've used loads of creative license (and by lots, I mean all of it) in the costuming but it's such a refreshing spin that I find I look forward to the blatant fashion historical gaffes rather than being annoyed by them.
You may now proceed with violent disagreement. It's ok, I know, I sort of deserve it. Like I said... Guilty pleasures and what-not.

xoxo







P.S. You know how we might have been talking about a bra sew-along? Stay tuned, it's going to happen soon!

A Vintage Brassiere in Profile... 1940's Bra by Siva of Paris

Hello lovely readers. Recently, I've been working on grading a few of my 1940's bra patterns into larger sizes. While doing this, I tested a few for fit and accuracy by sewing a few samples and became SO inspired to sew more lingerie again! In a fit of passion, I pulled all of my vintage brassieres out to study their construction and was again delighted to see the interesting details that these little beauties featured.

If you ever decide to try your had at some historically accurate bra sewing, here a few details you might like to try!

This little bra by Siva of Paris is from the late 1930's to early 1940's. The fabric is a satin coutil, a wonderful, but very hard-to-find piece of fabric for lingerie sewing. If you can't find coutil, a great substitute is to buy a very lightweight satin and baste it to a soft cotton lawn or fine muslin. This has worked wonders for some of my bra sewing projects.

The closure is one of my favorite types, and adjustable length of elastic (with mini buttonholes!) with a hook. These are incredibly comfortable and are still my favorite way to finish the back of a bra.

How to Draft a Trousers Pattern - A Tutorial

Hello my dear readers,
This month I have really had trousers on my mind. A trip to Banana Republic where everything was lovely, expensive, and way too short for my long legs had me thinking, "I can make this! Why would I pay $100 for something that just won't quite fit right?"

I always do this. I call it the seamless loop. I want a garment, but it's expensive and I could make it if only I could make the time, which gets me thinking about how much my time is worth, how busy I am, and that I technically make enough money to treat myself to a lovely thing like that once in a blue moon. But I just can't justify buying it, knowing that I could make a better-fitting one... and it all goes through my mind for long enough that I get sick of it all and before I know it, I'm cranky, frustrated, and without either a purchased or handmade version of what I wanted in the first place. Have you ever done this? It sucks!
So I decided to break the cycle. I am drafting a few patterns to test out the fit, length, waist rise etc. until I have the perfect pair. 

I also decided that I would create a tutorial here in case any of you might like to try trouser drafting for yourselves!
Here's what you'll need:

Paper, long enough for your high waist to floor measurement plus a few inches more, and wide enough for 1/2 your hip measurement plus a few more inches. (a nice, 36" wide roll does nicely!)
Pencil,
Eraser,
Rulers, including yardstick or a tailors' square if you can get one.
A French curve, hip curve or other curve drafting tool.

And of course, you'll need your measurements! This tutorial is adapted from a 1940's/ 1950's trouser so you'll want to pay attention to your vintage sizing.

And now for how it's done!

I. - See illustration above.

A to B - Equals side length measurement.
A to C - Equals 6 3/4” for size 12
              6 7/8” for size 14
              7” for size 16 and up...

C to D - Equals 1/4 of hip measurement plus 3/4” for ease. Square this line across at C.
C to E - Same length as C to D. Extend line D-C to E; then pivoting at D, draw an arc line above E.
A to F - Equals crotch depth measurement plus 1” for ease. Mark point F on line A-B.
G to H - Equals hip line D-E. Draw this line through F, parallel to hip line D-E.
G to I - Square this line up at G through D, making this line 1/2” less than A to F.
H to J - Equals 1/2 of line F to H. Extend line G-H to J.
H to K - Equals 1/2 of line H to J.
K to L - Equals line G-I (center front) plus 2” for center back line. Draw this line from K to L, touching the outer most curve of arc line.
G to M - Equals length from K to J.
G to N - Equals 1 1/2”. Draw a diagonal line; then draw a curved line from D to M through N.
K to O - Equals 1 1/4”. Draw a curved line through O.
G to P - Equals length of F to B. Square a line down at G.
K to Q - Equals length of F to B. Square a line down at K.
P to Q - Connect for lower edge.
P to R - Equals 1/2 of line P to D.
R to S - Square a line across at R for knee line; then draw slightly curved lines from M to R and J to S for inner leg seam.
B to T - Equals 1”.
T to C - Connect.

II. - See illustration above.
Draw waistline slightly curved, from I to A to L. Reduce waistline to fit 1/2 of waist measure. First make part of reduction at sides and center front. Then make a dart in back and a pleat in front at follows:
C to U - Equals 1/2 of C to E.
L to V - Equals 1/2 of back waistline; then draw a V-shaped dart, 6” long.
D to W - Equals 1/2 of D to C.

III. - See illustration above.
For crease lines on front and back, divide the knee and lower lines in half; then draw crease lines from bottom to hip line. For waistband, make a double band 1 1/2” wide, finished and the length of the waist measure plus 3/4” extension for left side opening. To complete pattern, add seam allowances to all pattern pieces and hem allowance to trouser bottoms. Make corresponding notches.

And there you have it! The straight waistband should only be used if you draft your pattern at waist level. If you lower it closer to your hip line, you'll need to draft a curved waistband.

Aaaaand on a completely separate note, I have decided to have a sale this week at Mrs. Depew Vintage! If there is a pattern you've been eying, now is the time to try it. Use coupon code "FLUFFEHKITTEH " in the box at checkout for a 15% discount - good until the 21st of October.

Happy sewing!

Sew French: 6 November 1949

I'm back from vacation with epic jet lag and a head cold, but I've hit the ground running anyways. With my first post back from vacation I'd like to start with a new segment I'll be doing here on A Few Threads Loose called "Sew French".

I have an amazing collection of vintage French sewing magazines and patterns and since I get so much enjoyment from them, I thought I would share bits of pieces of them with you.

Today I would like to share some lovely images and sewing patterns from "Le Petit Echo de la Mode." This edition was printed November 6, 1949.

It has lovely fall fashions and focuses mostly on really beautiful coats (and dresses) like these:

Sewing patterns for all of these fashions were available to order by mail. They are harder to find but I just love French patterns from this era; the styles are so timeless.

My favorite image from this edition is below, showing the latest style of accessories in suede.

Translation: "Suede in your adornment."

And of course, I have for you the two patterns included in the issue which I have given a "digital bath" as I like to call it.

 The first below is "Paniers et Corbeilles" or "Baskets and Trays." The measurements given for these are in centimeters.  If you don't read French and need the instructions, you can use Google Translate to make some sense of it.

This second pattern translates as "The baby area" and includes a "sleeping sack," "bags for hot water bottle and bottle" "a mat" and most interesting of all, a "walking belt" to keep the wee one from wandering too far on your daily promenade. Essentially it's a toddler leash.

Are these as fascinating to you as they are to me? Would you make any of these things? I would love to know! I have so much fun digging these things up.

I hope you have a lovely weekend.
~Anna~

Eye Candy - 1939

Today for your viewing pleasure, I have some clips from DuBarry Fashion Prevue, Feb. 1939.

I just love how colorful everything in the booklet is. It's very bright and optimistic in a world that was on the brink of disaster.

I have some old Star Twist thread spools with their cute little labels in beautiful pastel colors. And in case you weren't aware of it, you've been tilting your chin the wrong way your whole life!

 The whole booklet pdf is available for purchase here.

In Sewing News this week...

There's a lot of great stuff going on in the sewing world this week and in a bit we'll do a recap of some great blog post you might want to check out, but first, the Corselet is here!

This is by far the most ambitious multi-size pattern drafting attempt I've ever made, and it's finally done! (Though I may have sacrificed the better half of my eyesight in accomplishing it.

The corselet is a corset without boning. It's main purpose is to reduce unsightly bulges under clothing from bra or pantie lines, and to cinch the waist into a smooth line. it's the best way to get that hourglass 1950's curvy silhouette without the embarrassing underwear lines. Not mention, it's rather sexy!
This corselet can either be closed in front with a zipper or hook and eye tape. (boning can be added if you need more support).

The really cool thing is, you can pair it with your favorite bra pattern and with a little tweaking here and there, you could make one of these.... Sigh.

And as usual, with the release of a new pattern comes the giveaway to win your own copy.
To enter this time, you can just leave a comment telling me the newest thing you've learned how to do in your sewing adventures. I'll announce the winner next Monday, the 23rd.

In other news, Va-Voom Vintage is celebrating 1000 blog followers (congrats, Brittany!) with an entire WEEK of giveaways so go check that out!
(kicking it off with some goodies from yours truly :)

Sew Vera Venus recently posted the most stunning velvet dress for you to ogle over, and she's also currently offering a free pattern pdf for an adorable capelet.

Photo from Sew Vera Venus

 And How About Orange just posted a great roundup of some new sewing tutorials.

Hope you're having a great week!

Modes et Travaux ~ December, 1949

Today for your eye candy super happy fun time I have pictures of the very best that  Modes et Travaux had to offer in fashion, sewing, and hand work in December of 1949.

I was elated to win this edition on ebay because the cover is a beautiful sketch of a creation by none other then Christian Dior.

A white evening gown by Dior with the illustration by Artist Pierre Mourgue.

Does it get any better? Does it? Nope. Ah this dress, the stuff of dreams. I immediately set out to find photographs of it, and I'm still not sure I have the same dress but here is a photo of a Dior gown from 1949:

Lillian Bassman, Fantasy on the dance floor, Barbara Mullen, dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1949. photo courtesy Phillips de Pury & Company

There isn't anything in the actual magazine about the design on the cover (what?!) so moving on we can see the lovely full-page advertisements that the magazine starts out with.

Mail call, and I still have books on my mind!

I just love it when my sweetie comes home with a big pile of mail for me. He picks it up on base and brings it home from work with him. Yesterday was the first time he checked the mail in about three weeks since we were on vacation in the U.S. and boy, did some good stuff show up!

Most of this I bought online right before we left, or later whilst hunting online, morning coffee in hand, on vacation.

 I'm really excited to find out that Spadea Patterns released their own book, The Spadea Sewing Book: Sewing Tips by World Famous Designers (1967).

Another great book that came in the mail was Underwear and Lingerie from the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences (1940). I'm sure you'll hear me referring to this one often, as it covers EVERYTHING!