Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Sewing #610... Sewing the bust darts.

Aaaaand we're back with more bra sewing! At this point, we've drafted our pattern and cut out our test muslin for the bra. Don't you just love how the whole bra is just one piece of fabric? It definitely makes life easier!

I have cut out and sewn the darts in my silk version - the fabric I'm using? It's from an old set of silk charmeuse pajama pants that didn't survive my tossing and turning for long. The fabric has a bit of wear to it, but it's still pretty and feels heavenly on the skin. Waste not, want not - n'est pas?

For both your test muslin and the actual bra, you'll be sewing quite a few darts. Between my muslin, my adjusted muslin, and the bra in silk, that's 12 darts - 16 if you're lining the darn thing. So it helps to know a few things about sewing bust darts, and darts in general.

It's smart to start at the bottom and sew your way towards the tip, but here are a few more tips:
  • For bust darts, adding a very slight curve at the tip of the dart will help the garment contour better to the roundness of your bust. See more about that here.

  • At the tip of the dart, don't back-stitch, instead, pull the garment out from your sewing machine and leave a trail of threads long enough to tie a loose knot. Make sure that there are a few millimeters of ease between the knot and the dart.
My pin stealthily rusted onto my fabric, the horror!
  •  Press your darts flat before pressing them open. This will help set the stitches in the fabric.

  • And by far, my favorite tip for pressing my bust darts is to use an old bra! Fold the bra (the ones that are thickly padded are best) in half so that it supports itself and then cover it with a towel or press cloth.

The lovely little mound that it creates is vastly superior to my own pressing ham and perfect for pressing bra darts.

An old bra makes the perfect shape for pressing bra darts on.
So I've sewn my bust darts in the bra and now I'm going to take a short week-long break from sewing.

Pardon the wrinkles, I pressed the darts ok but the rest of the bra will just wrinkle again during handling, lining or binding so I don't even bother with the rest of it.
This coming weekend, I'm flying back to Nebraska to help my family manage the auction we're having to liquidate the family antique business. It was run primarily by my mother and with her now gone, none of us has the heart to continue with it. It's a very sad, but necessary part of adulthood, I suppose, letting go of the things you loved as a child. In this case, my sister and I grew up in our Mom's antique shop (home schooled and everything) and it will be awfully hard to say goodby to that chapter of our lives.
My wounds are still very raw from losing Mom only four months ago so this coming week will not be an easy thing to survive sober (though I'll be trying).

Wish me luck!


  1. My heart goes out to you during this impossibly difficult time.

  2. I do wish you luck. It is very hard to deal with a lost of a parent. I loss my father in 1999 and I have come to terms with it but it still hurts. He would be so proud of my son and the young man he has become.

  3. Sending you sweet thoughts, Anna. From experience, life will eventually feel more normal. Best of luck on your journey.

  4. I haven't even started the sew along yet (or bought my pattern), I'm trying to finish up my current wip, because I have learned that multi-tasking when sewing does not work for me. But man am I motivated to hurry up, even your unfinished bra looks lovely. The fabric is gorgeous, way to make use of those old pajamas. Also, great tip on using the bra when pressing darts!

    I have no adequate words of comfort during this tough time of letting go of your mom's antique shop. Letting go of the shop does not mean you have to let go of your memories. Sending prayers and hugs during these tough times <3