Monday, September 23, 2013

Continuing Education... and changing everything I knew about darts!

Hello lovely readers. Things are starting to settle down here a bit. We're 2/3 unpacked and my studio has a semblance of order (it's all an illusion) and so with a few quiet moments to spare, I thought I'd share what I've been up to.

With our return to the U.S. from Norway, all sorts of possibilities opened up. Should I look for a job now or continue with Mrs. Depew Vintage? Should I go back to school? Take a yoga class or learn Kung fu? Should I dye my hair pink? All of these ideas have been rolling around in my head for the last 6 months, even before we started packing. Some were put on the back burner for now... the Monterey area is nearly as expensive as Norway was and maintaining pink hair would be pricey... but I did settle on a few important things.

I love my job. I love running Mrs. Depew Vintage more than anything else I've ever tried, so it follows that I should continue to do what I love! But what next? I'm a huge fan of continuing one's education, in any way one can afford or find time for. I decided to take 2 days each week off from work and take some classes at my local college in the Fashion Design department. Right now I'm taking Fashion Illustration (very useful so far, as I can't draw to save my life) and Pattern Design. Granted, I know how to draft a pretty good pattern already, but I never studied it formally and would like to add some industry expertise to my skill set. So far, it's challenging and so much fun.

My professor has a great range of experience and so far has been a fount of useful sewing tips. One of which I simply had to share with you all the second I tried it!

My whole sewing career I have been sewing darts the wrong way! I followed my sewing books and blog tutorials when I first learned darts, and as everyone knows (or seems to) you sew a bust dart from the outside to a perfect point. And it always bothered my that there was a slight point at the bust apex. Whose boobs are that pointy?
Certainly not mine! So to fix this and get an incredibly smooth finish to your dart, simply change your stitching angle, just at the very tip of the dart, and slightly curve away from the dart tip as you sew.

Just a dart sewn into a scrap of muslin... notice the slight curve away from the dart tip. Pardon my battle scarred cutting mat.

The dart pressed open to reveal a very smooth bust dart, curving instead of pointing.
 Remember, this should only be done for bust darts. Any darts, say on your bodice back, won't need this.
I know it's a bit geeky, but hell, I'm a sewing blogger so I can totally be excited about learning a new way to sew darts better!

How about you? Have you ever taken any courses that you consider continuing your education (but not necessarily working towards a degree)? Have you enjoyed taking Italian for no reason, or perhaps a bread-making class?

Happy sewing,


23 comments:

  1. Threads magazine had a good article on contoured darts some years ago. The author advocating sewing an "S" curve for most bust darts, in which you soldier on fairly straight from the outside and then swoop into a curved middle, and ease out the tip just like the one in your photo. Makes sense when one's breasts are held up and away from one's sides by proper brassiere support -- you'll need far less fabric at the side of your bodice, and far more up front and center.

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  2. My senior year of college, I took a piano class just because.

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  3. awesome! would love to have access to fashion classes.....after years of going to school i am not doing so right now...but a fun class would be great :)

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  4. funny you should post this today... as I sit here wearing out for the first time my "Madonna" shirt hahaha
    it is a tank top I made that has exactly the problem that this information will fix: pointy bust darts.
    Thanks so much for sharing!

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  5. Awesome tip! Thank you for your sharing.

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  6. Such a simple technique with such great results! That is why I follow your blog, so I can learn vicariously through your education! Great post, Thanks!

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  7. Good to know!
    It is always fun to learn more! When I was at university I took a History of Rock 'n' Roll class. Not a skill class but it was FUN!
    Did take Cartooning and Caricature, which was outside my Concentration in the Art Dept. Should've taken a life sculpture class... so I am on the look out!

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  8. Perfect. I don't know anybody with pointy boobs like that, your right.
    Hope the move is going well :-)

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  9. I took a singing class in college - no intention of ever using it as a career, I just was tired of not being able to carry a tune. The result was, well, not entirely what I'd hoped for, but probably did help make me a better instrumental musician.
    It's not a class, but I'm currently studying German, out of a 1975 textbook (all I could find in the local used-book store) which is actually kind of cool because in 1975 I was in Jr. High, taking French.
    Excellent idea on the dart; now I just have to remember to USE IT!

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  10. this is so obvious! and so great! i love finding out these very simple techniques that completely change the way you sew. THANK YOU!

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  11. What a fabulous tip for darts. Thanks!

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  12. it appears my past slap dash darts have been good for something then? ;o)

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  13. ooh, never heard of curving away at the point. I did recently learn that we are supposed to sew from the tip down. Why are all instructions saying differently?!?!
    I'm taking an online Korean class since I've always wanted to learn another language. If I lived closer to a college or something I'd love to take more sewing or music classes.

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  14. That's such a great idea, pointy darts are always such a pain. I'm still at high school but I took Food Technology for 2 years and absolutely loved it even though I wasn't going to pursue it as a career and best of all I came away some amazing recipes I still make today :)

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  15. Whaaaatttt??? Its that easy?? Thanks so much for the tip! (Ha, ha!)

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  16. Ooh great tip - thank you! I took a wine tasting course once - can't remember a single thing from it though as I was drunk the whole time ;)

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  17. Mein Gott - this makes for a real "smack your own forehead" moment! It's something I'd have never thought of, but what an amazing difference it makes. Wow. Thank you so mcuh for sharing this - see, take a week off of work and the internet, and look at what I almost miss! *LOL*

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  18. Thanks for the tip - goodbye pointy bust darts.

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  19. It's a great tip ... and something I've been doing for a few years. Luckily I figured it out myself due to my giant acreage and lack of cone-shape

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  20. What a clever idea, which seems so obvious now it has been pointed out! Thanks for sharing it. I try to learn something new each year - makes the whole process less daunting. This year, it's been sewing related, add I've been working through a French jacket. [Yes, all year! ;-)]. So go for it, and have fun! Rachel :-)

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