How to Draft a Trousers Pattern - A Tutorial

Hello my dear readers,
This month I have really had trousers on my mind. A trip to Banana Republic where everything was lovely, expensive, and way too short for my long legs had me thinking, "I can make this! Why would I pay $100 for something that just won't quite fit right?"

I always do this. I call it the seamless loop. I want a garment, but it's expensive and I could make it if only I could make the time, which gets me thinking about how much my time is worth, how busy I am, and that I technically make enough money to treat myself to a lovely thing like that once in a blue moon. But I just can't justify buying it, knowing that I could make a better-fitting one... and it all goes through my mind for long enough that I get sick of it all and before I know it, I'm cranky, frustrated, and without either a purchased or handmade version of what I wanted in the first place. Have you ever done this? It sucks!
So I decided to break the cycle. I am drafting a few patterns to test out the fit, length, waist rise etc. until I have the perfect pair. 

I also decided that I would create a tutorial here in case any of you might like to try trouser drafting for yourselves!
Here's what you'll need:

Paper, long enough for your high waist to floor measurement plus a few inches more, and wide enough for 1/2 your hip measurement plus a few more inches. (a nice, 36" wide roll does nicely!)
Pencil,
Eraser,
Rulers, including yardstick or a tailors' square if you can get one.
A French curve, hip curve or other curve drafting tool.

And of course, you'll need your measurements! This tutorial is adapted from a 1940's/ 1950's trouser so you'll want to pay attention to your vintage sizing.

And now for how it's done!

I. - See illustration above.

A to B - Equals side length measurement.
A to C - Equals 6 3/4” for size 12
              6 7/8” for size 14
              7” for size 16 and up...

C to D - Equals 1/4 of hip measurement plus 3/4” for ease. Square this line across at C.
C to E - Same length as C to D. Extend line D-C to E; then pivoting at D, draw an arc line above E.
A to F - Equals crotch depth measurement plus 1” for ease. Mark point F on line A-B.
G to H - Equals hip line D-E. Draw this line through F, parallel to hip line D-E.
G to I - Square this line up at G through D, making this line 1/2” less than A to F.
H to J - Equals 1/2 of line F to H. Extend line G-H to J.
H to K - Equals 1/2 of line H to J.
K to L - Equals line G-I (center front) plus 2” for center back line. Draw this line from K to L, touching the outer most curve of arc line.
G to M - Equals length from K to J.
G to N - Equals 1 1/2”. Draw a diagonal line; then draw a curved line from D to M through N.
K to O - Equals 1 1/4”. Draw a curved line through O.
G to P - Equals length of F to B. Square a line down at G.
K to Q - Equals length of F to B. Square a line down at K.
P to Q - Connect for lower edge.
P to R - Equals 1/2 of line P to D.
R to S - Square a line across at R for knee line; then draw slightly curved lines from M to R and J to S for inner leg seam.
B to T - Equals 1”.
T to C - Connect.

II. - See illustration above.
Draw waistline slightly curved, from I to A to L. Reduce waistline to fit 1/2 of waist measure. First make part of reduction at sides and center front. Then make a dart in back and a pleat in front at follows:
C to U - Equals 1/2 of C to E.
L to V - Equals 1/2 of back waistline; then draw a V-shaped dart, 6” long.
D to W - Equals 1/2 of D to C.

III. - See illustration above.
For crease lines on front and back, divide the knee and lower lines in half; then draw crease lines from bottom to hip line. For waistband, make a double band 1 1/2” wide, finished and the length of the waist measure plus 3/4” extension for left side opening. To complete pattern, add seam allowances to all pattern pieces and hem allowance to trouser bottoms. Make corresponding notches.

And there you have it! The straight waistband should only be used if you draft your pattern at waist level. If you lower it closer to your hip line, you'll need to draft a curved waistband.

Aaaaand on a completely separate note, I have decided to have a sale this week at Mrs. Depew Vintage! If there is a pattern you've been eying, now is the time to try it. Use coupon code "FLUFFEHKITTEH " in the box at checkout for a 15% discount - good until the 21st of October.

Happy sewing!

Sew in Love... A Vintage Vanity Does Halter Top Video Tutorials!

Hello lovely readers!
Recently I was delighted to find that the very talented Jennifer of A Vintage Vanity on Youtube has done a full video tutorial series on sewing Depew #1006 - one of my vintage pattern reproductions!

The "So Sew Vintage" series of 5 video posts walks you through printing and taping together the pattern, grading the pattern (if necessary) to another size using the included pattern grading instructions, mocking up a muslin and adjusting the fit, interfacing the final pattern pieces and sewing them together, and adding buttons/ buttonholes to the finished blouse.

Jennifer, a self-proclaimed Geek (geeks unite!) chose to make her halter top out of Dr. Who-themed Tardis fabric, which, in my opinion, is unsurpassed in its epic-ness. 

The posts are very in-depth and so entertainingly presented that a complete beginner would have very little trouble sewing this blouse right up!

If you're not interested in sewing this blouse for yourself, you might want to check out the "A Vintage Vanity" Youtube channel anyways for amazing vintage fashion, DIY, makeup and hair tutorials and vlogging!
You can also follow A Vintage Vanity on Facebook.

If you are interested in giving this pattern a try, below is the complete tutorial set!

Happy sewing!

Part 1: Printing and taping together your pattern.




Tip: every printer is different and occasionally marins might be a hair off. If you find while taping the pattern pages together that the lines aren't matching up perfectly, give the perimiter of the pattern piece itself a little snip to free it from the paper around it. This can make it much easier to line up the pattern lines as necessary.

Part 2: Grading the pattern pieces.





Part 3: Mocking up the sewing pattern for a test fit.





Part 4: Interfacing and sewing the pieces together.





Part 5: Adding buttons and buttonholes - and the big reveal!




A huge thanks to Jennifer for taking the time to put together such a fantastic tutorial series! I can't wait to see the next sewing project you take on!

Vintage Sewing Pattern Ladies' 1950s Halter Top Blouse PDF Depew 1006 -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

Sew Expensive...McCall... something-or-other.

Boy it has been too long since my last blog post! I'm sorry about that. I've been swamped with preparations for our move from Norway to California (it never seems to end), work, and keeping the house perfectly spotless for the realtor to show off.

But today I have a few minutes so I thought I'd treat myself to a Sew Expensive post.
Today's pattern is McCall... it's a mystery!

This lovely beauty sold last month on Ebay but for the life of me, I couldn't find its pattern number in the photos. But that doesn't stop if from being utterly delicious.

This anonymous beauty sold for an amazing $180.49!
(Update! We now know it is McCall 3894.  --Thanks, Ginny!)

Believe it or not, in the realm of beautiful vintage couture patterns, that's actually reasonable. I've seen patterns like this go for up to $300.
This one is by designer James Galanos. His name might not ring out like Givenchy or Dior, but the man has style (he even dressed American First Lady Nancy Reagan) and is now an amazing 88 years old (well done, sir!)

James Galanos, image courtesy of http://www.onestyleatatime.com

Galanos contributed a few different designs to pattern companies like McCall and Vogue over the years but another one that stands out in my mind is McCall 4046.

McCall's 4046 - Image courtesy of Sandritocat Vintage Patterns

Just lovely, isn't it? Though where I would wear it if I made one, Santa only knows.
I don't know that I could justify almost $200 for a dress pattern that I have nowhere to wear, but I think I could manage for a neglige pattern that I could make and wear every day. I have the great privilege of working from home now, so I have retired my lovely office apparel and spend my money instead on things like silk pajamas that I can wear all day in my studio. It makes for a very luxurious work day, let me tell you!

Not to mention, you all know that I would plunk down the entirety of my pattern savings to get my hands on another Simplicity S-Series pattern.

Oh, and in other news, the movers come to pack up our things in a few days, including my pattern collection and all things Mrs. Depew Vintage related, so until then, you can use coupon code PACKITUP for $5 off of a $20 or more purchase at my Etsy shop.

But back again to the topic of pattern savings, do you have one? Or do you have a sewing budget? I have a small amount squirreled away for patterns at all times so that when that rare pattern I've been after for years comes up for air, lack of funds doesn't get in my way.

Oh, and also, now that I'm easily distracted and am thinking about squirrels, here's one to brighten your day.

xoxo

Anna

Just one more garter belt...

 It is now only 3 days until the deadline for the Lingerie Sewing Competition and I thought I would share another piece that I have made using the Corset Garter Belt Pattern.

I wanted to make a version that was more garter belt than corset. This was easily done by trimming each pattern piece at the narrowest point of the waist and then sewing as normal, sans any boning.

The fabric is a lightweight cotton print that I picked up in a sale bin at "The Mess" (my local, very disorganized fabric shop). For the back closure, I used some hook and eye tape, tea dyed so that it wasn't such a bright white.

Yeah, I know, word from the wise, never sew bias binding when your hands are shaking form a caffeine high. It never ends well.

I used flat felled seams like I did on my original corset for extra strength.

 Overall, the whole piece is quite light weight and breathable... though I was rather tempted to make one out of flannel instead, considering I live in freezing wet Norway (She said, putting particular emphasis on the freezing as if it were a curse word).

As Sarah intimated in her most recent blog post, sewing beautiful, feminine spring lingerie was like saying a big, "Go away, winter!" and that's how this piece feels. I can just see myself wearing this under a sweet, flowing pastel sundress. And, believe it or not, as I write this, the snow that was falling outside turned turned to a cold wet rain instead! It's still miserable, but considerably less so. Sweet Dita Von Teese! The lingerie Goddess has heard my prayer!

Don't forget, you need to post your submissions to the contest on Craftsy.com by Monday the 18th!

Swim Trunks for Boys... or Everyone?

Today for you, dear readers, I have a 1940's French knitting pattern for boy's swim trunks. I know, there are very few 11 year old boys would easily be wrangled into a pair of these but I thought, "Hey, aren't these just amusing?" and "What else could you use this pattern for?"

The diagram below from the pattern gives the measurements in centimeters, so could one conceivably fiddle with them to scale the pattern for a larger man, or a very bold lady?

What say you?

If you would like to download the whole French pattern, click here.

Or you can check out this digital download for a 1940's full size trunks pattern for men, from FabForties.

And since my thought progression on this topic has naturally taken me to Bond (I'm weak, I know), here is a picture of the man himself, rocking a similar fashion.

Oh, sweet Jesus.

And the winner is...

Hello lovely readers. Today is Monday, and you know what that means. It's time to announce the winner of the giveaway for my new sewing pattern!

And the lucky winner is: JacieKakes! You can email me afewthreadsloose@gmail.com and I'll send you your pattern! Jacie also happens to have started writing a blog recently and I found myself giggling at the clever way she describes things. You should really check it out! Jacie also commented that the next pattern she would like to see from Mrs. Depew Vintage would be a Geisha style robe like the one in this picture:

And I have to say, you're totally right! This is gorgeous and I've been wanting to do a robe pattern for the longest time! Wow, Lana turner... what a babe.

On my last visit home I recently acquired a beautiful cream silk charmeuse robe almost exactly like this. The lovely thing was coming apart at the seams and I spent most of the last two days carefully hand stitching it back together. Now it's soaking in my laundry room sink and I'm hoping some old stains will work their way out (any tips?)

I'm thinking about starting with a pattern from one of my old German pattern magazines and working my way out from there. What do you think of this one? (robe/ nightgown on the left)

Which leads me to a very important question that I would really like your input on. A robe pattern would be a great deal larger to print out as a digital pattern than what I've done thus far. To save paper and ink for the seamstress using it, I could overlap pattern pieces onto the same sheet (much like a Burda pattern sheet, only with one pattern). My question is, if you've already gone to the trouble of printing it out, is too inconvenient to also have to trace a few pattern pieces off? Or is the right pattern worth all the trouble?

And in other news, here's a quick sneak peak at what I'm working on right now:

If you didn't win the bathing suit pattern and would still like a copy, you can download it directly from my Craftsy shop, (yay instant download!) or you can find it in my Artfire shop, and my Etsy shop.

And don't forget to stop by Ohhh Lulu... to enter the giveaway to win her beautiful new Betty High Waist Panties pattern (yay Sarah!). I've already got my pattern and I'm off to the fabric shop (I've nickname the place, 'the mess') tomorrow to get supplies!

How about you? What are you working on this week?

The Much-Anticipated Bathing Suit Pattern Giveaway!

My lovely readers, you have been so patient with me. I put off the main part of my pattern drafting work to do the Pin-Up Sew-Along and now that we've reached a nice lull with that, I have finally had time to finish the much asked-for and anticipated bathing suit pattern!

Many of you are familiar with the famous photograph of Marilyn Monroe in the lovely and clingy white bathing suit and that was my main inspiration for putting the pattern together. I find myself getting a bit curvier than I used to be (isn't that always the case?) and I love the idea of a suit that emphasizes those curves while still providing a bit of modesty for the one's you'd rather not draw attention to.

I also created it in sizes x-small through x-large, in two versions, one strapless and one with halter collar strap for supporting those more endowed like Marilyn than myself.

Before I got started I had fun using an app called Penultimate to create a mood board with bathing suits and patterns that fit into this glamorous Hollywood image that I wanted to recreate, adding sketches and ideas to incorporate into my cover image for later as I progressed.

And of course, as I always do when I release a new pattern, I'm offering a free copy to one lucky winner!

To enter the giveaway you can do one or all of the following, just leave a comment for each entry to get your name in the proverbial hat.

1. Tell me what kind of pattern you'd like me to create next. I'm always open to suggestions!

2. Become a follower of A Few Threads Loose on Twitter, Google, or Bloglovin'.

3. Like A Few Threads Loose on Facebook.

4. Like Mrs. Depew Vintage on Facebook.

5. Mention this giveaway on your blog.

I'll announce the winner this Monday the 9th.
Good luck! 

Modes et Travaux

From my collection.

Most of you have probably seen this beautiful copy of Modes et Travaux here on A Few Threads Loose before.

From my collection.

The covers of these magazines starting with the 1920's going through the 1950's are so beautiful, I just had to share a few more of them.

Pattern Envy

I regularly troll ebay for great patterns and recently I found a doozy.

Hollywood 1667 may be the most ideal apron pattern I have ever seen. But of course, I was outbid.
But can you guess how much this darling pattern sold for? Can you?

OUCH!
So of course I can make a pattern for this, it's very simple... if only I didn't have 8 PROJECTS GOING ALL AT ONCE. I think I need to finish a few things first.

But on the note of lovely vintage patterns selling for quite a bit, I was bidding (what I considered to be) quite high on this lovely hat pattern a couple of days ago and lost it too.

Have you ever seen a more stunning cloche?

Can you guess what this perfection sold for?

Pretty, Pretty pictures...

My latest addition to my vintage WOW collection is a 1950's Spadea patterns catalog. We're talking 54 pages of AMAZING fashion drawings and sketches of the most gorgeous clothing ever.
Including...

 Spadea 705-D by designer Ceil Chapman, and Spadea 1096-D by Anne Fogarty.

Spadea 1194 and Spadea 1137 by Ceil Chapman.

Spadea 1159 by designer Jo Copeland.

 Spadea 1126 by designer Mollie Parnis.

And Spadea 1170 by designer Varden Petite.
And about 50 others. I made it into a pdf booklet since I couldn't post them all here. Yummy, right?

Gearing up for mayhem...

I am shortly to start job hunting again... which is litterally my least prefered past time.
Things I would rather do than job hunting:

•  Have a visit to the gynecologist
• eat mayonaise that's been left in the sun for hours
• spend 48 non-stop hours walking in 4" heels
• run a marathon in the nude
• wear a dress made entirely of live snakes

I think you get the idea.
So to compensate for this horrid thing that I have to do again, I'm going to have to sew some super fabulous outfits to do it in. Hence my latest sewing pattern purchases. I thought you might like a look at how I'm going to survive it all in style:

McCall's 5262:

I just bought this lovely business this morning over my morning cup of tea. I plan on making version A on the left... in cobalt blue if I can find the fabric...

McCall's 5637:

I think I'm going to have to make this one in just about every color. I don't normally go for bolero jackets but this one is really making me change my mind. I may just have to make the whole outfit up.

McCall 8220:

I bought this one about a week ago and I'm expecting it in the mail any day now. What I really love is the sleeve detail; it's all one piece, bodice and sleeve and it creates this really gorgeous line. Can you tell that I'm going to be looking for some sort of office work? My Norwegian has gotten a lot stronger and I'm hoping that I don't end up as a barista again... if I do, well, there will be a whole new post on fantastic cute 1950's party dresses and separates (my go -to barista garb).

On another note, I found my white whale. I really did! I have been hunting online just about every day for this pattern for two years!

I got it just days before I left for the states and I'm getting ready to make it up next in a fantastic 1950's rose print.

There's more to come soon on several new pdfs I have added to my etsy shop so stay tuned!