tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88001083355758616.post1153438124415494087..comments2024-03-25T02:25:22.521+01:00Comments on A Few Threads Loose: Grading a pattern: Depew 3009Anna Depewhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07055563789966415506noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88001083355758616.post-39265544390826073562012-08-13T21:10:08.484+02:002012-08-13T21:10:08.484+02:00Great idea for a tutorial and love the clear diagr...Great idea for a tutorial and love the clear diagrams. There's some very helpful Threads articles online you may like to point your punters towards too :) A few extra, easy pointers I'd like to put forward, if I may:<br />3/4" is the maximum that should be added or removed at each seam allowance, ideally not more than 1/2". If grading above this, do it in stages (e.g. grade up by 1/2" then by another 1/2" to add 1" at each seam) otherwise ugly fitting issues start raising their heads.<br /><br />Regardless of whether a person is petite or not, the larger the width added, the more length that needs adding too and vice versa (as is normal when doing FBA/SBA). <br /><br />When lengthening/shortening, try to do it at the horizontal adjustment line (if the pattern has one - it will say "cut/fold here to lengthen/shorten") as this is the "balance line" for the bodice / hip and keeps the pattern in proportion, level to the ground and the correct shape. If it hasn't got an adjustment line, add one about 1" above the natural waistline in a bodice or at the hipline. <br /><br />Remember that the waist measurement is for the natural waistline - this is a lot higher than most people think it is, especially since modern patterns/fashion place waistlines about 1 1/2" below the natural position.<br /><br />If adding/subtracting width at the bodice side seams, the armscye has to be redrawn, otherwise it will end up too big/small (Not a problem on strapless like above of course when there is no armscye!). The shoulder slope usually needs redrawing to add/remove excess shoulder length/depth and should be done before redrawing the armscye. This is important to remove pulling/excess fabric in the upper chest area.<br />Where the amount added/subtracted is different at bust vs waist or waist vs hip, the seamlines need to be blended / "trued" to retain the original shape. <br /><br />Bear in mind that if the major adjustment is several inches on the waist and not much elsewhere, the garment is not going to look like the original design if it started off as those typical '50s wasp waists!<br /><br />Before redrawing the darts, hold the paper pattern against the body and work out where the bust point/apex is and mark that, then make sure the centre of waist and bust darts point to and end 5/8" away from that point. <br /><br />If you have a bust below a B cup, make the front waist dart(s) slightly smaller (1/8" - 1/4" in total for each half side), if you have bigger than B cup, swing the dart out wider (about 1/8" for each cup increment), this can often help avoid an S/FBA. <br /><br />A lot of vintage patterns have very high bust points - and bra styles at the time complemented that. Our modern bra styles now make our breasts much rounder and therefore our bust points are lower and the width between them wider (in a more natural position). The majority of people I measure have a bust point lower than the pattern standard.<br /><br />Hope these points are of some help too. Social Historianhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09930089762630968441noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88001083355758616.post-48025822081238894772012-08-13T15:11:08.863+02:002012-08-13T15:11:08.863+02:00great tutorial!! I knew how to resize on multi siz...great tutorial!! I knew how to resize on multi sized patterns but so many vintage ones are not - I'm sure lots of vintage pattern owners will find this very handy, including me! Thanks!Symonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17965640501644567685noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88001083355758616.post-14285612955504230072012-08-12T21:46:19.618+02:002012-08-12T21:46:19.618+02:00Perfectly timed post! I got a huge lot of pattern...Perfectly timed post! I got a huge lot of patterns from ebay that I'll need to grade up/down to fit! Thanks!Miranda Burnetthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10818158549201735822noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88001083355758616.post-86761583557584778252012-08-12T15:54:06.134+02:002012-08-12T15:54:06.134+02:00Great post!
I pinned it:http://pinterest.com/pin/2...Great post!<br />I pinned it:http://pinterest.com/pin/246079567110267816/OnePerfectDayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11908580469589046110noreply@blogger.com